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Solo Travel in Laos

The Tak Bat Monk Procession in Luang Prabang: What I Wish I'd Known

By Jennifer Varner 5 min read

What Tak Bat Actually Is

The Tak Bat is the morning alms-giving procession in Luang Prabang. Each day at sunrise, more than 200 monks from the 13 Wats (temples) in town walk silently down the main streets in single file, collecting rice and snacks in their bowls from locals and visitors kneeling along the way. It's been happening for centuries. It's the reason most travelers wake up before dawn here.

I almost missed it on my first morning. By accident, I got it right anyway. Here's what I wish I had known.

My First Morning: Lost in the Rain

I like to sleep in and was already tired from travel, so I didn't think I'd do this on my first morning. But I had to use the restroom at 5 a.m., so I figured: stubborn traveler's gonna stubborn. Let's go.

A statue of a dog near the Mekong River at sunrise in Luang Prabang, Laos
A really cool statue along the Mekong River at sunrise. Unfortunately not on the Tak Bat route.

It was pouring rain. I had no umbrella. No raincoat. I went out anyway.

Having just arrived, I had no idea where the procession actually happens, so I walked the block down to the Mekong River, thinking that was the most logical route for an old Buddhist tradition. I was wrong.

After 45 minutes of walking around, soaked, a local finally pointed me toward the actual street where the monks pass at around 6 a.m.

The Setup: 100,000 Kip and a White Cloth

Once I got to the right spot, the rest was simple, kind of. A woman selling rice and packaged snacks waved me over. I paid 100,000 kip (less than $5 USD) for a basket of rice and pre-wrapped snacks. She wrapped a white cloth over my shoulder (a sign of respect during the offering), and pointed me to a low stool already lined up with a few other people.

And we waited. Soaking wet. In the half-light.

Offering of rice and snacks for monks in the Tak Bat Monk procession in Luang Prabang Laos
The offering for the monks.

Meeting Nathan from Arkansas

Next to me on the stool was a soft-spoken American named Nathan from Arkansas. He'd gotten divorced during COVID and was now married to a Thai woman, who was actually the one trying to explain to me what I should do (Nathan was barely keeping up himself). He'd been to 19 different countries since COVID. He was kind enough to take a few photos for me, and we talked about how strange it is to be Americans on the other side of the world right now.

This is what solo travel gives you. You sit on a tiny stool in the rain in a country you've never been to, and the person next to you is from Arkansas, married to someone he met after his life imploded, and somehow you both understand each other completely.

A woman handing out rice to a monk in a saffron robe at the Tak Bat ceremony in Luang Prabang Laos
The photo Nathan took of me participating in the Tak Bat ceremony.

The Mistake I Wish I'd Avoided

After the procession ended and I ran out of rice and snacks, I walked back to my hotel.

Where I discovered, on the sidewalk two meters from the front door, the offerings the procession had left behind. The monks walked right past my hotel. I could have stayed exactly where I was, walked downstairs in my pajamas, sat on the curb, and done the whole ritual without the 45-minute rain detour. Or I could have observed the entire thing from my patio.

A group of monks with umbrellas walking under power lines in Laos
The view from my patio of dry tourists participating in the ceremony from my hotel.

I was staying at the Ancient Luang Prabang Hotel. If your hotel is on the procession route, that changes everything about your morning.

What I Wish I'd Known Before

  • The procession follows a specific route through the old town. Don't guess. Look up the current route the day before, or just ask your hotel. Some hotels are on the route.

    The monks pass around 6 a.m., not 5. Get there 15 to 20 minutes before, not an hour, unless you enjoy waiting in the rain as I did.

    100,000 kip is the going rate for a basket of rice and packaged snacks from a local vendor. Don't haggle. It's a small offering, and it goes to a vendor and monks, not a tourist trap operation.

    Bring a small umbrella, period. Even in the dry season, mornings in Luang Prabang can surprise you. Mine almost ruined my first morning. Don't be me.

    Sit on the low stool provided. Standing taller than a monk is disrespectful. Vendors set up stools for a reason.

    Stay quiet. No flash photography. No reaching toward the bowls. Don't make eye contact during the offering. Move slowly.

    Low stools in front of a Buddha statue in Luang Prabang Laos
    The low stools provided for the Tak Bat procession ceremony.

    Should You Do It at All?

    The Tak Bat has become controversial over the years. Some travelers go for the photo opportunities and disrespect the ceremony. Some locals say tourism is degrading the tradition. I get it. I also think there's a respectful way to participate, especially if you actually buy a real offering and follow the lead of the vendors.

    If you do it, do it slowly. Don't crowd the monks. Don't block the path. Don't push your phone in their faces. Sit, kneel, place the rice, bow your head a little. That's it.

    What Surprised Me

    Many of the monks were children. Some looked barely older than elementary school age, quietly moving barefoot through the morning alms procession with their bowls tucked beneath bright orange robes.

    A woman and a young monk with an umbrella during a Buddhist ceremony procession
    One of the younger monks during the Tak Bat ceremony in the rain.

    In Laos, many boys enter monasteries as novice monks at a young age, sometimes for religious reasons, but often for education, structure, and opportunity, especially for families from rural villages. While Thailand also has novice monks, Laos still feels deeply connected to this tradition in everyday life, particularly in places like Luang Prabang.

    Watching the line of tiny novices, teenagers, and elder monks pass silently through the streets in the rain felt less like a tourist attraction and more like a glimpse into a living cultural rhythm that has continued for generations. Although similar to me, several of the young boys looked like they would have preferred to sleep in.

    Monks in orange robes with umbrellas walking in front of a Buddhist temple in Laos
    Buddhist monks walking to their next procession stop in the rain. They were smart enough to have umbrellas since this tradition is a part of their daily routine every morning.

    Would I Do It Again?

    Yes. But smarter. I'd book a hotel on the route. I'd bring an umbrella. I'd wake up at 5:30, not 5 in a panic. I'd hopefully get some coffee somewhere before it started. And I'd skip the side trip to the Mekong River in the dark.

    If you can get even one morning of it right, the procession is one of those moments that stays with you. Two hundred monks in saffron robes, in silence, in the dawn. You don't need to be religious to be moved by that. You just need to be there. Preferably dry.

Jennifer Varner, Gal Goes Solo

Jennifer Varner

American expat living on Koh Tao since 2021. Travel consultant for solo travelers heading to Thailand. More about Jennifer.

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