Koh Rong Sanloem is a small island paradise in the Cambodian part of the Gulf of Thailand. Located 16 miles south of Sihanoukville, Koh Rong Sanloem is a short 45-minute ferry ride away from this port city.
When one thinks of travel in Cambodia, an island paradise is probably not the first thing that comes to mind, yet Koh Rong Sanloem boasts uninhabited white sand beaches and turquoise clear waters. Similar but different from its sister island, Koh Rong to the north, Koh Rong Sanloem has laid-back vibes but without the young backpacker party scene.
I was lucky to spend 5 days on this fantasy island in July 2024 and here are my impressions as a solo female traveler.
Getting to Koh Rong Sanloem Island Cambodia
Similar to Koh Tao, Koh Rong Sanloem is an island that lacks its own airport, making it challenging to reach. The nearest ferry terminal is located in Sihanoukville, a port town that also houses a small airport catering to a limited number of international flights daily.
To reach the island, one can easily take a flight from Phnom Penh or Siem Reap to Sihanoukville, then use a Grab taxi to reach the pier and board a boat to Koh Rong Sanloem.
Many travelers opt to take a bus directly from major cities to Sihanoukville Pier, as I did from Phnom Penh. The cost of a 4-hour minivan ride was approximately $20 USD, significantly cheaper than a flight which would cost over $100 including luggage fees.
The Layout of the Island
Koh Rong Sanloem is around 6 miles long by 2 miles wide. There are no paved roads in Koh Rong Sanloem. To visit various spots on the island you need a boat or a tractor and good walking shoes. There are 3 main areas to know.
M'Pay Bay
On the north of the island is a small fishing village called M'Pay Bay. Here you can see the local families and children playing. It is all very quaint and charming. It has a reputation for having a party scene, but that was not my experience.
Saracen Bay
Located in the central southeastern area is a bay with a crescent shape known as Saracen Bay. This extensive white sand beach is home to the majority of resorts and restaurants. The stunning scenery in this area is truly remarkable, making it one of the most beautiful beaches I have ever visited worldwide.
Southwest Beaches
The west side of the island has secluded beaches such as Sunset and Lazy Beach. Here you can find your very own slice of paradise. With only a few rustic places to stay, the west side of Koh Rong Saanloem is a true Robinson Crusoe experience.
Accomodations on Koh Rong Sanloem
Depending on the area of the island you choose to visit, you will find a range of lodging options. M'Pay Bay generally offers more hostel and homestay choices, while Saracen Bay is known for its upscale resorts featuring beachfront bungalows. The West Side, on the other hand, is characterized by its rustic ambiance, with only a handful of beachfront hut hotels.
Close to M'Pay Bay, there is a newly opened luxury retreat known as ThmorDa Resort. Perched atop a hill and boasting a spacious multi-story restaurant, it provides an ideal setting for catching breathtaking sunsets. The resort's decor is impeccably designed, blending natural elements with retro touches like vintage motorbikes and a roulette wheel.
I chose to stay at Sara Resort in the middle of Saracen Bay. A private bungalow with a patio and AC costs about $35 a night, which is more than I usually spend on accommodations but well worth it. The shower is hot and the beds are comfy. The resort itself is stunning with an idyllic pool, bar, and restaurant directly on the beach. The staff including Charl, Elliot, and 2 Dans were friendly and very attentive.
On the west side, I would recommend Lazy Beach Resort. This is truly the unplug and getaway from everything spot. Perfect for honeymooners who prefer absolute privacy. The Beach Bar at the resort has delicious food, cold drinks, and a hospitable staff. Plus the views and sunsets are top-notch!
Things to Experience on Koh Rong Sanloem
Despite its size and lack of paved roads, Koh Rong Sanloem offers a variety of activities to enjoy.
Exploring the Island by Boat
There are several small boats available for this adventure, which I highly recommend. Initially, I had arranged the tour through my hotel, but it got canceled at the last minute due to a lack of participants. Fortunately, I found Mr. Lucky's boat tour just a short walk away on the beach. While the hotel tour cost $25, Mr. Lucky's tour was only $15, and it even included a beer and a beach BBQ dinner. What a fantastic deal!
Among the passengers on the boat were a pair of French female medical students, a Chinese family with two children eager to improve their English by conversing with me, and an elderly Cambodian family residing in the United States.
The excursion featured activities such as snorkeling, fishing, a trip to the nearby fishing village of M'Pay Bay, a sunset trek, and my most cherished experience, swimming alongside bioluminescent plankton during the return journey to Saracen Bay.
Hiking Around the Island
For those who enjoy hiking, Koh Rong Sanloem is a paradise. The island offers rugged trails through rocky terrain and dense jungle, leading to various attractions such as a lighthouse, waterfall, and stone carving. Remember to bring an ample supply of water, as the sun can be scorching during the day.
I took the trail from Saracen Bay to Lazy Beach which was enough for me in the heat of the day. I was going to pay for a tractor ride home but it was busy getting supplies so I paid a local to ride me back on his motorbike. I wouldn't recommend this because the road is rough. I was so happy to be back in one piece.
Snorkeling and Scuba Diving
My primary reason for visiting Koh Rong Sanloem was to explore the sea in this area of the Gulf of Thailand. Unfortunately, the conditions resembled those of Koh Tao, with a significant coral bleaching incident and limited visibility. Nevertheless, I managed to have some fantastic diving experiences.
I went diving with The Dive Shop Cambodia and was highly impressed by their operation. The team was excellent, and the setup on their dive boat was among the best I've encountered. My dive instructor was a Cambodian woman named Ah Roth, who had a keen eye for spotting small marine life despite the challenging visibility. I was delighted to capture images of a vibrant bornella stellifer nudibranch.
Should You Visit? Final Thoughts on Koh Rong Sanloem Cambodia
I spent 5 nights at Koh Rong Sanloem which was the perfect amount of time to unwind, read, explore, and chill. As a solo traveler, it was easy to meet people, but a little lonely at times.
After receiving numerous recommendations from friends, I decided to visit Koh Rong Sanloem to explore the Chinese influence that had reshaped mainland Sihanoukville. I was pleased to discover that the island has maintained its rustic allure, resembling a deserted paradise.
Would I revisit Koh Rong Sanloem? Definitely, especially with a friend, preferably during the dry season for optimal scuba diving conditions. In essence, Koh Rong Sanloem stands out as the ideal fantasy island honeymoon destination in Cambodia.
Jennifer Varner is a retired mental health counselor, a PADI Divemaster, and yoga instructor currently living her best life as a gypsy and travel blogger. For any questions about travel in Southeast Asia, contact her at jenvdotcom@gmail.com.
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